Ping Ping King

The other day,an amazing thing took place on little old Hayling Island. There was a 8 metre long whale beached on a mudflat just to the north of Hayling in the neighbouring Langstone Harbour, Hampshire.

Unluckily, the Northern Bottlenose had gone through severe dehydration, which meant it was suffering from renal failure, when it became pinned down on Thursday night.

There was a super saving scheme, where people tried valiently to save the whale’s life. There was a time when the team thought that the kind thing to do would be to put the magnificent creature to sleep with a lethal injection. Still, the whale then swam out to sea yet again. Regrettably, it came back towards the land again and was beached for a second and concluding time.

The medical team adjudicated that the only compassionate thing to do would be to issue the lethal injection, which they did on Friday morning. They used Immobilon, which was a very prompt and lethal strength of anaesthetic.

If the mammal wasn’t put to sleep, the experts believe that it would have taken about 2 further days for the beast to die, during which it would have been sick and distressed.

It seemed bizarre that the six metric ton mammal, which is usually found about 3000 miles away, finished up here on Hayling Island, but it is another wonderful story that Hayling brings to its history.

There were around a dozen firefighters, police, coastguard personnel as well as members of the Hayling Island harvour lifeboat staff involved in the attempt.

Dear Mr. Katz:

I recently purchased your book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” and have tried very hard to curb my dog Honey’s aggressions, which I have now recognized as both fear and food aggression… after reading your book.

But instead of better, I fear it is getting worse.

We adopted her from the age of 2-3 months, and she was fine in the beginning. Very loving and extremely hyperactive. The hyperactivity continues, and she still jumps up at anyone coming near the house. She seems to fear tall men, especially if they have anything in their hands, like a garden rake or spade, and she backs away from strangers, even small children. She is afraid. She gets aggressive with anyone she senses is afraid of dogs, and she has gone for them, making it worse for them, of course! She becomes aggressive with anyone who passes her by when any food is around, and she will growl and snarl at them, telling them in effect that the food is hers, so hands off!

To crown it all off, she snarled and growled at me today when I went up to stroke her, which she has not done before. I have always tried to correct her, either by the leash, or we have a muzzle which we correct her with, and failing that, I will put her in her crate as a punishment. I am not a novice with a dog. Before Honey, we had the most wonderful shepherd/husky dog, who was similarly abandoned, and I never had one problem with him - he was wonderful. I have taken honey to obedience classes - She does sit and stay, also goes down when she is instructed to.

I feel that I have done everything possible to alleviate her aggression, but it doesn’t seem to work. I have two daughters who both pour love on her too, and quite frankly, I am afraid one day that she will become vicious - Can you please give me some advice, because I do not want to have to have her put down.

I have tried everything you recommend in your book, including spitting in her food, and making her wait to eat last. But I must be doing something wrong! I know mixed breeds aren’t your favorite, but please make an exception in my case. I love dogs, and hate to be beaten. I am also English, and you must know that we are softies when it comes to animals!

I await your reply in haste!

Sincerely,
Diana

Dear Diana,

First, let me point out that I share my home with a mixed breed.

And yes… I like him. A whole lot! His name is Forbes and he is one of the most compatible dogs I’ve ever had the pleasure of sharing my life with.

To be honest, I have a feeling that your dog’s issues are very much a result of poor genetics and weak nerves.

But before jumping to any conclusions, you must first recognize that all of the information you’ve droned on about provides me with NONE of the information I need in order to help you.

So… what do I need? I need to know what happens when you correct the dog? Does she continue to act aggressive? Does she stop immediately? Does she try to bite you? Does she go submissive? And once you get her to pay attention to you, what’s happened once you’ve started to create new/positive associations with the stimulus, as described in the book?

These are all of the questions you need to be asking yourself. As well as:

- Is my timing on the money? Is the dog associating my corrections with the behavior (the aggression).

- Am I being consistent? (Be honest… if the dog isn’t getting a firm correction EVERY TIME she exhibits the behavior, then it’s no wonder that you’re not getting the results you seek.)

- Are my corrections motivational? If the distraction/stimulus is more motivational than your correction, then you’ll never get any results. You’ll know that your correction is motivational when the dog stops looking at the stimulus and starts looking at you.

Please let me know. However, judging on what you’ve described I would not be surprised if this is mostly the results of poor genetics and weak nerves. And in which case, you will never be able to overcome the dog’s genetics, so the dog should either be put to sleep or confined to such a lifestyle that she only comes in contact with you and people that she does not show the aggression towards. But before you make any snap decisions I would recommend consulting with a professional who can evaluate the dog for you. It’s impossible to give an accurate assessment without seeing the mutt. Err… dog.

That’s all for now, folks!
Adam

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider’s Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History.” Get a free copy of his report “Games To Play With Your Dog” when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: www.dogproblems.com

* Lock things up that could cause harm
* Keep the washer/dryer door closed at all times
* Honk the car horn before starting it up
* Use fire carefully
* Keep all upstairs windows closed or screened
* Store string away tidily
* Keep floors free of small things
* Be constantly aware of what your cat is doing

Curiosity gets most cats in trouble at some point in their lives. As your cat’s caregiver, keeping her safe sometimes seems like a “mission impossible.” With a little foresight and action, however, you can create a “home, safe home.”

When you’re trying to provide the best home possible for your cat, it pays to think like her. Put on some old clothes and get down on hands and knees and take a look around. Is that shiny crystal vase on the shelf a tempting target? Remember that cats will jump onto shelves and tables.

That dangling drapery cord would be fun to leap and grab. What’s in this big pot? In case you need help identifying what might catch a cat’s eye, here’s a list of common household items that are often the cause of cat injuries:

* Roach and ant traps
* electric and phone cords
* cigarettes in ashtrays
* open doors and windows
* rubber bands
* housecleaning chemicals
* lit candles
* Christmas trees
* ornaments
* paperclips
* rocking chairs
* uncovered toilets
* trash cans
* human medications
* chocolate
* anti-freeze
* unattended boiling pots
* electric stove burners
* plastic bags.

Cats find plants irresistible as playthings. They love to pounce on them and shred them with both their claws and teeth. Although they are carnivores -meat eaters-they sometimes eat plant material. For these reasons, it’s important to make sure the plants in and around your home won’t pose a health risk. The following are some common house and landscape plants that are toxic to cats:

* Philodendron English ivy
* caladium dieffenbachia “elephant ear”
* poinsettia
* mistletoe
* azaleas
* holly
* berries
* boxwood
* wisteria
* hydrangea
* oleander
* chinaberry tree

If you live in an area prone to natural disasters, keep an emergency pet supply kit with your own. Include a week’s worth of food as well as any medication your cat takes on a regular basis. A photo of your pet is also good to keep with your emergency supplies, in case you are separated from your cat during the event, you’ll have a way to get the word out to locate her.

A collar with an identification tag is one of those things that you might never need, but will wish you had if you need it and don’t. Even if your cat is strictly and indoor pet, the unexpected could happen. A door or window is left ajar, or a natural disaster creates an opening in your home through which your frightened feline escapes.

Your cat’s identity tag should include the following information

* Pet’s name
* Owner’s name and address
* Telephone numbers (day and evening)
* Medical problem requiring medication
* Veterinarian’s name and number
* Current Rabies vaccination information
* Reward offer should pet become lost

Many people have their cats micro-chipped for identification. A small silicone chip containing the owner’s contact information is painlessly inserted under the cat’s skin. Most animal shelters automatically scan lost pets to read the owner contact information. However, if your cat is found by an average citizen an identification tag will speed up your reunion.

About the Author

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If your dog is excessively barking and driving you and your neighbors nuts, try a few of these simple solutions.

1)Walk your dog at least 3 times a day

2)Exercise and play with him/her

3)Try corrective training if dog is too territorial

4)Enlist help from a dog trainer if needed

5)Try training aids (i.e. bark collar) if all else fails

Walking your dog is a surprisingly effective way to solve many behavioral problems, including excessive barking. Many times, dogs are simply frustrated and need to get out and get some fresh air. Dogs are our little babies, but they still need time to just be dogs. It’s important to their psyche to sniff, mark and explore the great outdoors. It’s also a chance to establish your dominance in the “pack”. While you’re out, try exercising and playing with him/her. This will make the experience more enjoyable for both of you and work out some excess energy.

Some dogs are overly territorial, and so the local mail person and any other passers by get a full dose of barking. In this case, get a friend to help you do some corrective training. First, put on your dog’s collar or harness and leash. Then, have your friend walk by the fence or yard to make the dog bark. Give the dog a quick correction every time he barks so that the association is made that barking at people is bad. If this doesn’t work, try hiring a professional trainer. Many of these people are great experts with dogs and can help.

If all else fails, you could try something like a bark collar. Many people think it’s cruel, but it just surprises the dog each time they bark so that they stop. Make sure, though, that you’ve addressed the underlying issue of the barking.

Why do dogs eat feces?

“I don’t eat any animal that hasn’t got sense to disregard his own feces.”
“A dog eats his feces.”
“I don’t eat dog either.”
“But would you consider a dog to be a ‘filthy animal?’”
“I don’t know if I’d call a dog ‘filthy,’ but they’re definitely dirty. But a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.”
“So, by that reasoning, if a pig had a better personality, he’d cease to be a filthy animal?”
“That’d have to be one charming pig. He’d have to be ten times as charming as that Arnold on ‘Green Acres.’”
- Pulp Fiction

For reasons that are still fairly unknown to veterinarians and scientists, some dogs seem unable to resist the tasty treat of their own or another animal’s feces. Amongst a group of dogs a decent sized lump of excrement is less safe than an errant Twinkie at an Overeater’s Anonymous meeting. If dogs ran the world the finest restaurants would serve big steaming plates of the stuff as an entr©e and the doggie version of T.G.I. Friday’s would serve it as an appetizer, cleverly fashioned into a flower shape. We don’t even want to guess what would be served as a dipping sauce.

It was once thought that the tendency some dogs have to eat feces stemmed from a nutritional need of some kind. Poor diet and poor health were considered to be the motivation for this seemingly bizarre and definitely disgusting (to humans) behavior. Vets and animal health specialists now say that isn’t the case as research shows no connection between canine dietary or nutritional needs and the phenomenon. At this point, scientists are stymied. No one knows why some dogs do this.

In the case of a mother dog that has recently given birth, the behavior is completely normal. Mother dogs will teach their pups to urinate and defecate by licking their hindquarters. The pups respond to the stimulus by doing what is expected and the mother will eat the results instinctively. For dogs in the wild this behavior served two useful purposes. It kept the whelping area clean and eliminated the odors of the pups’ waste that could attract predators. The puppies often learn this behavior from their mothers and mimic it. Most puppies stop doing this by the time they are weaned.

It is more curious when non-parent adult dogs eat feces whether it is their own or that of some other animal. Some scientists suggest that this is scavenger behavior and natural for dogs who are traditionally scavengers. The theory doesn’t explain why some dogs do it and some do not, however.

As natural as it may be, it is not a good idea to allow your dog to engage in this behavior. Eating of feces can expose a dog to internal parasites and bacterial infections, as well as raise the risk of viral infections like distemper and parvo. The best way to prevent a dog from engaging in this behavior is to remove the temptation. Keep the yard free of feces by disposing of it promptly. Owners can also train the animal early, before it becomes too habitual. Other methods that have been employed with varying degrees of success are feeding the dog things like garlic and pumpkin which are believed to make the feces less appealing and spraying the feces with a foul smelling solution (most dogs despise citronella, for example) that will make the dog not want to eat the excrement.

Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Differences Between Pet Containment Systems

If this is the first time you’re shopping for dog crates you may find it a little complicated. You may have noticed already that the use of the word kennel can be somewhat confusing. So before making a final selection it’s a good idea to learn about the differences between some pet containment systems. Equipped with this information you’ll be ready to choose the best crate for your dog.

How Can I Tell The Difference Between Dog Crates, Dog Kennels & Pet Carriers If They’re All Called Kennels?

A “kennel” is a very general term meaning a place where dogs are bred or kept. By its very definition it can be used to describe a broad range of pet containment products such as pet carriers, dog crates, pet exercise pens and outdoor pet kennels.

For example, a wire kennel and a hard plastic kennel sound very similar because both are called kennels. In some ways they are very different. Depending on how you plan to use it there are certain features that you’ll need it to have. This is why it’s very important to focus on the features that you need. Only after carefully reviewing the features of a specific model can you be certain that it will adequately fulfill all your needs.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

A wire dog crate or kennel is designed to safely contain your pet. But, it’s not designed to be picked up and moved around with your pet inside it. Although available in soft-side models, soft crates are usually not referred to as kennels.

A hard plastic carrier or kennel is designed so that your dog can safely travel inside the carrier. Pet carriers also come in soft-side models. Soft pet carriers are not usually referred to as kennels.

Some hard plastic pet carriers make ideal dog crates, but a dog crate is usually not a good substitute for a hard pet carrier.

What Are Some Of The Basic Features of Dog Crates & Pet Carriers

Wire Dog Crates / Kennels

Used for crate training, housing breaking and as an everyday crate
Many models are available with divider panels for growing puppies
Can be used to contain your pet in a vehicle
Available in collapsible or folding models
Not approved for airline travel
Offers the most visibility and ventilation - well suited for heavy-coated dogs

Soft Dog Crates & Tents

Soft crates & tents are light weight, portable, easy to set up & take down
Can be used as an everyday crate
Not approved for airline travel
Pet must be well crate trained
Not for diggers, chewers, aggressive dogs or dogs that experience anxiety while crated

Hard Plastic Pet Carriers / Kennels

Hard plastic pet carriers are used to carry and transport pets
Some models can be used as an everyday crate
Many are approved for airline travel
Not recommended for growing puppies since they don’t come with divider panels
Can be used to contain your pet in a vehicle
Available in collapsible models

Soft Pet Carrier Bags (for pets under 25lbs)

Soft pet carriers are designed to safely transport a small dog
Can be used to contain your pet in a vehicle
A soft pet carrier should not be used as a dog crate
Many are approved for airline travel and some can be taken in the cabin if the carrier fits under the seat in front of you.

What Questions Should I Consider Before Selecting A Dog Crate?

Before you shop for a dog crate, take some time to consider how you’re going to use it. This will help you get the most out of your investment. The type you choose will depend on your lifestyle, your dog’s behavioral patterns and what type of activities you plan to do with your pet. We’ve provided the questions below to get you thinking about the many different ways that pet crates can be used.

Is this crate for home use only? If you’re not planning on traveling with your dog a basic wire crate is a good choice for an everyday crate. If you’re going to keep it in one place you probably don’t need a collapsible model.

Are you buying a crate for a puppy? If you have a growing puppy select a crate that your puppy will grow into. Make sure it comes with a divider panel, which will allow you to adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows.

Do you take your dog in your car? It’s highly recommended that you crate your dog while traveling by car. You may be able to purchase a crate that you can use at home as well as in your car. Or if you take your dog in the car frequently purchasing a separate crate for your car may be best. Either way you may want to consider a folding crate, which is much easier to move around once it is folded up. Even if your dog is not crate trained use still may want to consider crating your pet while in a vehicle.

If there’s any chance that your dog can accidentally get out of your car in a strange and dangerous place that’s a good enough reason to invest in a crate. Crating your pet while you’re driving will also prevent any mishaps that could result from your dog being left loose in your vehicle.

Are you planning on taking your dog on an airplane? You will need a hard plastic airline-approved pet carrier. For small dogs you might be able to use an airline-approved soft pet carrier bag. Wire dog crates are not approved for airline travel. If you travel frequently by plane you may want to look for a hard plastic dog carrier that you can also use as an everyday dog crate.

Do you need a crate that is portable and collapsible? If you plan on moving your dog crate around a collapsible model is a good option. A collapsible model should come with convenient carrying handles. There are also some collapsible hard plastic carriers that can also serve as everyday dog crates.

Do you take your dog hiking or camping? You will certainly want to consider a collapsible soft crate or tent. They are designed to be portable, lightweight and very easy to set up and take down.

A warning about soft crates, tents and pet carriers: - If your dog is aggressive, chews, digs or experiences anxiety when crated these are not for you.

As you can see, choosing the right dog carrier depends on your dog’s size and temperament, the intended location and use, and the function and features that you expect the carrier to fulfill. Choose the dog carrier, kennel, or dog crate that best suits your needs and how you see the crate functioning. You’ll want to pick the one that offers the most convenience for the uses that you have in mind.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

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